Champagne Extra-Brut, A. Margaine

Always a complex assemblage: 35% 2003, and 65% of these vintages in roughly equal proportions: 02, 01, 00, 99 and 96! Disgorged 1/06 and bottled with 7g.l. RS; violet and hyacinth aromas make you think of Riesling (as these wines often do), but the palate is all apples and Rainier cherries with a chalk-powder sprinkle; wonderfully silky and generous, refined and accurate.

A virtual Blanc de Blancs; 90% Chardonnay to 10% Pinot Noir.